Truely French Soup

Rouen in the north of France is a delightful town. The city was virtually destroyed during WWII. Even the cathedral that Monet painted at the different times of day was almost destroyed. They have been rebuilding and have almost completed it. There are some of the old timber houses left, but basically it has wide streets and is very clean. In all towns in France they white trains that are their tour “buses.” We took the white train and saw the sights. After the tour, we went back to the area where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake for lunch of mussels and fries at Taverne Bovarois. Jim ordered a bottle of muscadet to go with them. They were delicious. We walked back to the cathedral area and sat in a café drinking vin rouge and people (dog) watching. The French have the best behaved dogs in the world. They all walk beside their masters on a slack leach and go straight under the table when they sit down.  No begging!
That evening we went to a restaurant called Gill. The chef is named Gilles and he is supposedly the best chef in all of Normandy. The restaurant was very elegant and they actually had small square downlight in the ceiling. The interior was a soft gray and white. Prior to the first course we were serves 2 small spoons each. One had meat pate and the other I believe was a fish moose with something red that was sweet. My first course was a ginger consume, jelled with shrimp slices and topped with an oyster mouse and shredded cabbage. This was served with a seaweed broth. I’d have to say that it was difficult to eat and weird. Jim had a crab and fennel salad that had a very truffle taste. It came with a large round dried tomato set decoratively on top, great presentation. We had a second “amuse” in a small narrow glass with lobster consume and oyster moose on top. For my main course I had sweetbreads set on top of a wonderful collection of peas, thin green beans, snow peas, asparagus and a decorative pave of pea moose. Jim had sea bass with Cepe mushrooms. Cepe mushrooms are in season in September. Jim said they were the best mushrooms he has ever tasted. We had a 2002 Sancerre with dinner. We then had an “amuse” of dessert, a small oval glass dish with lemon and rice pudding with a coffee mouse on top. This was followed with a plate of cookies, tarts and something that looked like a ba-ba-a-rum only with apple cider. I was too full, but Jim ordered an apple soufflé for desert. It had a paper thin apple baked on the top. Instead of dessert I had a 1984 Calvados. If there was a Zagat for Normandy this restaurant would be in the VE for cost. I am undecided whether it would definitely rate a very good, but not an excellent. He also owns a Bistro called Gill cote bistro. I think I would try this next time. Today’s photo is where Joan of Arc was burned at the steak.
Dinner tonight is from La Mere Poulard’s Cookbook that I bought in France. Meres Cuisinieres means the most talented women Chef. Paul Bocuse says, “La Mere Poulard is France.” This soup is so French. Although Jim ate the whole pot, I see it more as a first course for 6. I also served an artichoke.
Creamy Mussel and Celery Soup
4# mussels
1 Bouquet Garni (parsley, bay leaf and thyme)
3 celery stalks, thinly sliced
1.5 oz whole grain rice
1 QT. milk
3.5 oz dry white wine
16 oz. heavy cream
1 bunch parsley
Freshly ground pepper
• Heat the mussels in a pan with the white wine and bouquet garni. Shake the pan until the mussels open and then remove from the heat. Remove the mussels from their shell and set to one side. Strain the liquid through a colander and keep the liquid.
• Pour the mussel liquid and milk into a pa. Add the celery and rice and cook on a low heat for 30 minutes. Once cooked, blend the soup and stain it through a fine sieve.
• Put the mussels in the bottom of the bowls and pour the creamy cleley soup on top.
• Garnish with chopped parsley and a twist of freshly ground pepper.
(Note: This soup does not need any salt, as the mussels already contain a sufficient amount to season this creamy soup.)
Between the whole milk and heavy cream we would not want to eat this every day, but it is a true treat.